Road v TT Cleat Set-Up

"Tad, I’m considering getting a second pair of road shoes dedicated to my TT rig. What do I need to do to find the optimal cleat positioning – how would it differ from the road setup?"

Lee,

These are great questions. Yes the setup on the 2nd set of shoes for TT/Tri may differ from your road shoes in several ways. Since the pelvis in the aero position is rotated forward and down the ischial tuberosities narrow and place more weight distribution on the pubic rami and perineum area. Therefore the stance width or "Q" factor may change since you are not sitting up and wide as in a road position, and canting levels may be less. You may desire a narrower stance to relieve tension of your abductors (inner thigh). What is becoming more normal in TT/TRI now is to look at placing the pedal farther back on the shoe (via speedplay extender plates) to put the axle underneath the knee more and deactivate the calf and reduce radial and axial forces (rolling)of the ankle foot relationship. This along with the correct arch support via a custom insole can create a more favorable torque profile perfect for steady state riding and in some cases can reduce hip and knee angles (and the distance they travel) that allows more aero positioning without a loss of power. Add a rotor ring with the correct phasing in the powerband for your most efficient sustainable power production.

There are several methods to finding the best case placement of the cleat, but you would need to quantify how much steady state versus undulation your riding entails (speed changes as well as terrain), as well as intensity and duration. If you were to graph power based on placement, the farther forward the cleat the higher the spike, whereas moving the cleat back creates a spike not quite as high as the forward position it is several times wider which means that the ability to sustain a high workload. The difference is the use of the foot as a rigid lever and the different muscular recruitment, especially the calf.

The old way of placing the center of the spindle under the ball of the foot has changed whereas the axle centerline is now advised to be between the junction of the 2nd and 5th toes at their respective bases. This was to reduce pressure on the bones of the foot. Besides the "ball of the foot" is usually 3cm due to the curvature and angle of the foot depending on toe up or toe down pedaling styles.

While you know I am happy to do this for you, here is the way I would advise you to baseline the cleat position. Keep in mind this is not addressing cant or orientation/rotation. Use your powermeter to determine at a set speed(kph)if you can drop a few watts out by fore/aft positioning from the baseline.

1. Sit on a table with bare feet. Have a partner mark the center line of the (side) of the ball of your foot with a pen while your feet are suspended. (The foot is often on an elevated position and not one of 90 degree dorsiflexion as in standing.)

2. Take a thumbtack (point bent over)and place longways over the penmark. Affix with tape.

3. Carefully slide your foot in the shoe. Have your partner feel and place a mark (on the outside of the shoe) on top of the thumbtack. It is best to continue it to the sole of the shoe. Chalk or a grease pencil/china markers works well. It is not abnormal to not have the lines match up from left to right due to variances in your feet.

4. Next set the cleat centerline behind the drawn line based on the below:

Shoe Size 36-38 7-9mm behind the line

Shoe Size 39-41 8-10mm behind the line

Shoe Size 42-43 11mm behind the line

Shoe Size 44-45 10-12mm behind the line

Shoe Size 46-47 11-14mm behind the line

Shoe Size 48-50 12-16mm behind the line




Try this out and let me know how it goes.




Website: www.tadhughescustom.com
Twitter: @MasterBikeFit
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Online Question: "When fitting clients, what do you find the correlation is of saddle height and leg extension (at max)?"

Marc,

This is a great question and I would say drop it 2mm (about the width of a sharpie marker), but I urge you to look at it from another viewpoint. Instead of driving to a desired knee angle that is merely in the range, think of the knee angle as the end result of the pattern and angle of the foot at the top and bottom of the stroke after cleat placement, canting, and internal shoe support. We also have to consider the front to back (fore/aft) as the relationship between the knee over (plus or minus) the foot can affect timing as well as knee health. You have to think of the femur as a lever similar to a locomotive with the foot acting as a concentric in the connection. My clients are all put through a thorough flexibility and structural exam so I know ahead of time exactly what the limitations are, and you will definitely need to know the profile of the lower back and sacrum of that individual. 

Seat height can vary and be environmental.  Houston (Gulf Coast/flat) clients left to their own accord tend to gravitate towards an up and back position to make use of full extension of the leg from a position that is above and behind the pedal spindle. In most cases the knee angles will be high with the feet slightly toe down.  This footpath tends to resemble the shape of a vertical watermelon, where the emphasis is vertical extension into the stroke (think locomotive) and pulling up, with very little torque through the bottom half of the stroke. Main complaints are usually lower back and saddle issues. Austin (Hill Country) clients on the other hand tend to run slightly lower and forward since the need to have the foot in full contact through the bottom of the stroke with a slightly forward bias due to more climbing. Knees angles are usually lower here, but dependent if the client dorsiflexes pulling the foot flat through the bottom of the stroke.  The foot tracing here looks like a fat egg since the lower and forward saddle produces more torque through the bottom. Common issues are lower back, quads and hands since most folks are too short in their reach after moving the saddle forward to place the knee farther over the foot.

 In either case the knee angles will vary depending on the individual and their conditions but it is most important to listen to cues of what they want and where they feel that they need it most. You are just choosing different sides of the range depending on the goals of that person. The casual rider with an emphasis on comfort may want to be back and down to change the weight distribution to relieve pressure off their hands and the saddle interface is paramount. More performance oriented individuals may tend to trend on the higher side as weight distribution leans towards the front end more and even more so for triathlon. Hope all is well in Florida.  Enjoy the ride. 

Website: www.tadhughescustom.com

Twitter: @MasterBikeFit

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Tri and Tri Again

The cycling state of the union seems to be quite healthy this summer.  One aspect of influence may be the explosive growth of triathletes.   There are now more regional events than I can remember including Texas' most recent achievement at hosting Ironman Texas in The Woodlands this past May with registration for Ironman Texas 2012 rumored to be near full.   Perhaps the personal/individual achievement spirit of a three sport discipline is a draw compared to the perception and atmosphere of competitive cycling. Statistically only 6% of triathletes come from a cycling background, so naturally there’s not a huge emphasis on this middle transition. Whether you’re in that 6% or not, here are 3 tips for any triathlete’s success in cycling.

1. Get a bike fit.

As obvious as bike fit may seem, it is not as simple as bolting on an aero bar. You may think you can do it yourself but just like cutting your own hair, seeking out a professional is always worth the extra cash.  Tri positioning is designed to be aero. Yes you sit more forward on the bike (usually) but how forward and your range of motion are the main parameters in a bike fit.  Factoring in how far and how often you will ride and how competitive you are should determine placement of the 7 points of contact with your body with the main emphasis in determining and maintaining your personal hip angle and best position for your knee.  Seek out a professional in your area to determine your needs. Remember that trial and error yields lots of both. This also leads to the important decision of whether a tri bike is paramount, or if your current bike with a new bar and second seat/seat post combination will satisfy your needs.  It is my professional opinion a properly fit dedicated tri bike can yield high performance gains since the improved aerodynamics coupled with the ability to maintain a forward position is optimum but is not necessarily better for the average aged athlete over a 70 or 110 mile ride.  A modified road bike (preferably something from the performance/endurance class) may be a more desirable suitor as its relaxed nature provides a well rounded platform for long rallies and centuries.

2. Short course vs. long course

Never assume you can ride any distance in the same position.  A bike intended for a 45-minute event will not be comfortable for 50 miles.  Conversely, ultra aggressive bikes with low head tube heights become challenging in making a rider comfortable for long distances and steep seat angles can produce a firm ride making it difficult to place the seat in the optimum location.  An ultra aggressive position is not something you can “work into” nor should you learn to “tolerate it” over longer distances. Your body will not be able to hold proper form over multiple hours and remember… you still have to transition into your run. The knee at four centimeters in front of the pedal axle is considered “neutral” with the maximum for short course being in the seven to nine centimeter range.  For a longer course the knee is usually two centimeters in front or directly over the axle depending on the feedback from your transitions.   The average head weighs approximately 9 lbs. so for every centimeter you move the knee forward, it exponentially makes the head heavier as gravity cantilevers your neck. Thus a long course bike would have a higher bar position to relieve this pressure and to prevent deterioration of the hip angle over multiple hours on the bike.

3. Full-time fanatic or part-time enthusiast?

Decide in earnest if you are diving in or just dipping a toe.  You may not be a candidate for a tri fit if you compete in a few sprint triathlons (12 mile bike) each spring.  Changing your overall position for one or two events will compromise your current fit post competition.  Now if you’re pre-registered for every Olympic (25 mile bike) tri this year and next, make an appointment with a bike fit professional. You might also decide how much you’re willing to invest.  If your budget is $2,000 than aero wheels and an aero helmet would yield a significant improvement to your program over a tri bike at the same price.  My reasoning is that wheels will help keep the bike at speed thus improving your split as well as help you to be more efficient as you will conserve energy (for the run) in keeping the bike at the same speed in lieu of your normal wheels. Remember that lightweight wheels accelerate and decelerate at the same rate and the slight weight penalty is worth the energy savings.  The $2,000 bike will most likely not have aero wheels, would probably be aluminum providing a harsh ride while being possibly heavier than your current bike. See my point? While you don’t have to train in an aero helmet you should definitely race with one regardless of the distance you’re competing in. Many studies show significant improvement in airflow and it stands to reason that since your head is the main culprit in your frontal signature, any reduction or positive manipulation will yield favorable results. With an average cost around $200 it provides the biggest bang for your buck… right after a solid bike fit.   Enjoy the ride. 

Website: www.tadhughescustom.com

Twitter: @MasterBikeFit

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Mid-Foot Cleat Positioning

@FirstHippy asks, "Mid-foot cleat positioning. It would be a massive change, beneficial to my long TT goals but detrimental to climbing/sprinting?" #bikefit

Yes. The best compromise would be a Rotor/Q ring to compensate, but you can’t have your cake and eat it too.  You need a pair of shoes set up exclusively for the TT rig , and midcleat may require a greater amount of change to the fit since you will sit lower on the bike. Your road set can have a placement closer to your 5^th metarsal or even in front of it and the stance may be slightly wider since the sitbones would be wider. Your range of motion between the bikes will be similar, but you will be employing more leverage from the calf on the road shoe which is the only class 1 lever on the body. My suggestion  about cleat placement has to do with how much fluxuation/accelerations your riding will have compounded by time/duration.  Think of it as moving the needle back and forth between steady state and explosive.  Hope this helps.  #bikefit

Website: www.tadhughescustom.com

Twitter: @MasterBikeFit

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Your Bike Can Talk. Listen to it.

Your equipment and clothing has a story to tell, but what are they trying to say? Notice one side of the chamois becomes unstitched on every pair of shorts you own?  One side of the bar tape always seems to push away or a gel pocket on only one glove seems pummeled?  Only one side of something seems to be continually sore?

Cycling is a closed kinetic chain with only 5 points of contact for the normal rider and 7 contact points for a triathlete in which to distribute the body’s entire weight on the bike, all while moving.  Now consider the body’s weight distributed over those points but with a skeletal twist or a hip rotated forward. Would all the points continue to evenly bear the weight? In most cases, no, as the body will simply adapt; we’ve given it no other option. Take this concept into consideration in regard to time and intensity on the bicycle. Minor asymmetries typically show less bearing in shorter slower rides but can be debilitating over multiple hours or high intensity. 

While the causes can be various and far greater than my short list, here are a couple of things to look for, and fix, to get a little more comfortable on the bike.

1.       Saddle:

View from the back and side to ensure one side has not collapsed or is lower than the other, or that there is a bent seat rail and/or seat post issue. When viewing overhead is the saddle straight with the bike? Is the saddle straight but the nose twisted? Is there material worn or missing from one side?   Focus on wear patterns when looking overhead. Are there clues such as divots and if so are they even side to side?

2.       Pedals/Cleats:

If you can’t recall the last time you changed your cleats, it’s been too long, especially if you are a Look Delta/Keo user.  Always clearly mark the outline of your cleat by tracing them with a pen.  Start your cleat inspection by making sure the cleat is intact noticing any differences left vs. right.  It is normal to find accelerated wear on your dominant foot but too much will cause a change in the pedal gait of that leg since the material interface and proper engagement angle have changed.  Inspect the body of the pedal next, looking for gouges, irregular wear or any missing material. Don’t overlook bearing wear and bent axles.  Either of these two items can cause many problems if chronically neglected.

3.       Handlebar/Shifters:

I coupled these two pieces of equipment since they each contribute to different yet simultaneous issues.  First and foremost check to see that the wheel is straight with the frame. You will often notice it more while riding rather than standing over the bar. Overly worn bar tape on one side, calluses on the hand that do not match or worn rubber on the shifter are tell-tale signs that too much force is being exerted, or at least at the wrong angle. This is not limited to just the top of the bar but uneven, dirty or wear marks on the drops tell a story as well. It is best to use a wind-trainer or a repair stand to ensure your hoods are level.  Use a traditional level or measure each side from the tip of the saddle to the center of the horn of the hood.

Regular visual or measured inspection can be the best preventive maintenance for the health of your position and alleviate nagging or painful scenarios while riding.  By putting the pieces of the puzzle together based on these common signs, you can better understand the needs of what your body is trying to tell you on the bike. Enjoy the ride. 

Website: www.tadhughescustom.com

Twitter: @MasterBikeFit

Facebook: /MasterBikeFitter

Frogs, Weenie Dogs and Apes

Last month we visited the issues of availability in the quest for the right bike. Agree with the concept or not, the chances of purchasing your next bike or frame based solely on the size and geometry of the model are high.  Both can be based on the dimensions of your current bike or ones established between you and your fitter.  This month we will look at my clients’ number one question, “What is my size?”

Most cyclists can ride two different sizes of the same model, comparable to a car available in a coupe or sedan.  While basically the same on a bicycle their characteristics or personalities are slightly different due to the wheelbase of the two models affected by the different proportions based on rider weight.  So how much you lean over impacts the weight distribution and ride quality of the bike.

Matching the basic geometric shapes of the rider and bike are of utmost desire as a fundamentally more sound marriage is achieved.  In order to do this you need to look at your body as a basic geometric shape, the lean angles, or type of riding you do. Now think of the bike frame as similar but proportionally growing from size to size, but in what shape?  Is it solely accountable for the range of which the saddle and handlebar can be placed?  Is it square or a rectangle? 

In looking at the human body its vast array of differences boil down to basics: 

Frogs: Legs longer than the torso, both male and female.

Purchasing a bike solely on stand over height/inseam often produces a bike too large. Top tube, head-tube and seat tube angles should be top considerations in the decision process. Males should consider their arms' wingspan in consideration of size, as long arms need a home and that home is usually the next size up. Due to the shorter torso a shorter cockpit can be obtained, but you need to be honest about your flexibility as the short cockpit often produces a low cockpit. Female riders will no doubt gravitate towards women’s specific models which in most cases are a vertical rectangle. The challenge is that most women’s models have steep seat tube angles, putting your knees too far forward due to longer femurs. Clients uncomfortable in this situation, where they need to be further back but want a higher and shorter position, need an upside down triangle. This typically eliminates many women’s models from consideration.

Weenie Dogs: Long torso, short inseam. 

Often many in this proportion, having previously purchased based on stand over height, have been on a bike too small for years. And while cliché, it affects about 50% of males.  Since the majority of most bikes are proportionally square it stands to reason that historically long stems (or yoga) were needed.   If you were to go a size up for the longer top tube it was often at the expense of stand over height and your voice a few octaves higher than normal. Here a horizontal rectangle is in order to accommodate the extra length of the longer back.   Flexibility will still come into play in regard to head-tube length as the majority of these models with the long top tubes are low “race” models. In recent years many modern sloping models have offered the best of both worlds with variable front end heights and ample stand-over to accommodate this shape and the fleeting flexibility of an ever graying peloton.

Apes: Short inseam, long torso and long arms. Rare and beloved.

In this case all aspects of the horizontal rectangle are needed, but typically with longer stems due to the need to house the increased length of the arms.  This type is a high custom candidate as bikes available with extra long top tubes are rare, much less one that would ride properly with a long stem.

Matching the right shapes between rider and bike based on flexibility and riding style is the first step in producing a perfect fit foundation to your perfect ride.   Next month we will look at how geometry  affects the personality of the bike and how identical geometries with different materials and construction methods can produce vastly different ride qualities and handling. Enjoy the ride.

Website: www.tadhughescustom.com

Twitter: @MasterBikeFit

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Made to Wait | Why Your Next Bike Might Not Be on the Sales Floor

In the upcoming months, I am going to look at the most complex issue and question my clients ask the most: What size bike is right for me?

Seems simple, but when we look at the dizzying array of manufacturers (including factory direct), materials and sub-styles the answers are shades of gray instead of black and white.  While I am seeing a renaissance resurgence of aluminum and titanium frames, carbon fiber is the most common and inquired upon product and the most difficult to explain.  So let’s get some background and point out some realities you will face when purchasing your next bike. 

1. Know the game.

Many consumers might not realize bike shops OWN their inventory unlike a car dealership. Why would that affect you?  The relationship with the bicycle manufacturer is different in that the shop has to purchase and negotiate for bikes in terms of manufacture and allocation, not financial terms.  They must then purchase the low margin product outright on short terms in lieu of having manufacturer floor planning whereas the auto manufacturer would have (and want) all their wares displayed.  Insert the old saying of “if you want to make a small fortune in the bike industry, it is best to start with a large one”.

Due to the current financial climate, manufacturers take estimates from bike shops in the pre-season and don’t tend to over produce much less produce to the estimated forecast, especially on upper mid-range, high end and exotic models.  The bike shop must roll the dice in terms of what to bring in, in what sizes and often does not have the luxury as to when they will get their order.  Akin to restoring an old car you have to buy the parts that are available in lieu of the part you actually need. Often in the Gulf Coast with near year long riding seasons the product launches are scheduled to become more available closer to the “summer selling season” aligning with parts of the country that are truly seasonal and with corresponding  advertising and editorial blitzes. Sneak peak media exposure at Sea Otter (early Spring) and the full court press building up to the Tour in July.  Bike companies are savvy and are timing the product release in conjunction with saturated advertising when snow is not on the ground for a large percentage of North America even though we are 4-6 months into our season.

2. It’s not your shops fault.

So you have been quietly reading the reviews of the new XYZ bike,  reading and learning all you can yet still cautious and “waiting for one to come in” so you can see, test-ride, negotiate and possibly purchase.  Assuming you know your size (to be discussed in depth next month) you frequent your local shop, finally inquiring on the status of the XYZ bike’s arrival.   Most likely you are given an “availability date”, but what you should be asking is, “Do you have any ordered or on allocation?” because most of the XYZ’s are already spoken for.   Find it odd that neither big shops nor little shops stock the XYZ?  If an XYZ were to become available it would get shipped to the big dealer, not because they are more likely to sell more XYZ’s, or even if it had them allocated but often because they buy more bread and butter inline product from the manufacturer than the smaller shop and the manufacturer will favor the numbers of total sales.  So in essence many big shops have an exclusive on a product they do not stock.

Bike manufacturers have spread themselves thin in regard to how many models they take to market due to the many internal genres within our sport. Take into account that the term “manufacturer” can almost be substituted for “designing-marketing-broker” as it is no secret most products are made in factories they do not own.   The manufacturer is in constant negotiation for production time at multiple factories as they have multiple companies that essentially all want products at the same time and it is difficult to “add” or “re-insert” a model once the production is in.  Clients often say, “That’s stupid. Why if the demand for the XYZ is so great don’t they make more?” Well in most cases they can’t. Production lines are full, the raw materials may not be available and certainly all these cost fluctuations would find their way ultimately back to the consumer.  This lack of widespread availability is one of the major attractions for the custom market, as you can have your made-to-order bike quicker than waiting (or hoping) that the XYZ will come in - even if you’ve made a deposit and it’s been ordered.  

What I am driving at is how you buy a bike will change and like it or not, bike fit will be at the heart of it. Knowing your personal numbers with an understanding of the relationship of size, geometry and material for how you ride is my goal focus for this series of articles.   A professional pre-fit will more than pay for itself as the changes needed to make your stock bike properly fit when it comes in (handlebar, saddle, stem, cranks etc.) would easily double your costs.   Pre-fit equals peace of mind that you have ordered the right size. Enjoy the ride.   

Website: www.tadhughescustom.com

Twitter: @MasterBikeFit

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6 Tips to Consider to Save Your Butt - Your Source of Alignment on the Bike

Let's focus on the saddle itself as a source of alignment and its relationship to knee, hip, back and shoulder/hand pain.

The saddle in cycling has long been a rite of passage for each individual rider for as long as the bike has existed. One could even argue the mystique and aura about the discomfort of the bicycle  seat either by looks alone (or just the thought of sitting on one) keep more individuals from riding, either infrequently or taking up the sport altogether.   Almost an unspoken rule, the quest for the seat seems to be a tradition that every rider encounters somewhere in their relationship with cycling. The cadre of choices, coupled with the desire to balance the desire for comfort, performance and throw in a hint of superstition for good measure and you have all the makings of a good fable.   Much like in the three little bears where the porridge is initially to hot or too cold the search for “just right” often comes at the expense of several previous dubious efforts.

The width of the saddle you are riding is critical to your alignment on the bike. Comfort and alignment are two different things, what I am referring to is the side by side support of your sit bones or ischreal tuberosities as it relates to their position on the seat.  The average persons’ sit bones are 14cm or wider, but the majority of saddles especially “racing” ones are in the 13cm range.  It means that even though one sit bone is planted, there is not enough saddle/material for it to parallel so it must adjust forward or aft for support, thus moving your hip, knee in or out as you pedal.   This concept is also a major source of genital discomfort and a leading cause of saddle sores... Since the sit bones cannot properly support your weight due to the wrong width or shape, the majority of the support is in the perinea/pubis area.   This same pressure can also be associated with low handlebar position as your weight is being “rolled” or pulled forward on your perinea.  This is one reason why women’s specific saddles are wider in the rear and have a shorter nose than normal saddles. The more upright you ride the wider your seat needs to be. Your sit bones widen as you sit up, they are at their closest point when your torso is most parallel to the ground and widest if you were to sit straight up in the seat while pedaling.  

So with that said of the selection criteria should be based on the torso angle or how high you sit up.

Level it out.  It is commonly suggested to start with the saddle parallel to the ground whenever possible.  A saddle pointed too far down forces weight onto your hands. The body in order to overcome the forces of vibration lock out the elbows to stabilize itself and hold you up as you pedals. Now all that stress is behind your neck and shoulders.   If the saddle is too nose up may lead to lower back pain as the pelvis is rolled back and trying to stabilize itself in multiple directions.

Keep it straight. We often do safety checks  pre-ride, checking tires and brakes but we often overlook little  things that can add up to big problems . I often see a major source of knee injury/discomfort by someone who simply rode with their saddle that was slightly askew most likely from transport.    A chronic neck, shoulder or hand issue could be a shifter that has dropped down or is in or out so a bar that is slightly off center. These small details can add up to great discomfort if you are on the bike for multiple hours.

You’re not pro.  You need to be honest and reason with yourself and buy the saddle for who you are and not who you want to be or emulate. If you feel that you need a cut-out or more padding then you probably do.  A wise Italian man once remarked to me that “saddles and grease are not good places to save weight on a bicycle”.  Look closely at the television next time and count the robust “old school/classic” saddles that have been around for thirty years on riders lucky enough to have contractual control over that component. If the frame weighs 900 grams and the saddle weighs 330grams then there is a conscious decision in that choice and sometimes comfort is performance.

Rite of passage tips for buying/upgrading your saddle

1. Don’t listen to anyone. Decide for yourself, unless you have an identical twin using a different saddle than yours since it is a highly personal matter and no two butts are the same.

2. Get measured. There are several different options and devices that measure your sit bones at the desired “lean” level and have a corresponding color or number system to help with saddle selection. 

3. Decide on the width first then shape. Once you have figured out your desired size choose a shape, some models will be domed or have curvature and others a flatter profile from front to back.

4. Softness v. support. The longer the ride the firmer the saddle needs to be.  Too soft of a saddle and the muscles in your lower back will tighten over time in an effort to stabilize your hips.  Soft saddles are great for short trips, but not designed for the long haul.

5. Put your blindfold on.  Try to put your design hat in your back pocket and be objective.  Basing a decision on color, graphics or weight is self defeating.  Most great saddles come in both colors, black and white.

6. Try to seek out establishments with a good saddle selection with a demo/test ride program or a liberal test ride policy.  This will allow you to try shapes and options in your desired width, and be able to contrast and compare.

Website: www.tadhughescustom.com

Twitter: @MasterBikeFit

Facebook: /MasterBikeFitter