6 Tips to Consider to Save Your Butt - Your Source of Alignment on the Bike

Let's focus on the saddle itself as a source of alignment and its relationship to knee, hip, back and shoulder/hand pain.

The saddle in cycling has long been a rite of passage for each individual rider for as long as the bike has existed. One could even argue the mystique and aura about the discomfort of the bicycle  seat either by looks alone (or just the thought of sitting on one) keep more individuals from riding, either infrequently or taking up the sport altogether.   Almost an unspoken rule, the quest for the seat seems to be a tradition that every rider encounters somewhere in their relationship with cycling. The cadre of choices, coupled with the desire to balance the desire for comfort, performance and throw in a hint of superstition for good measure and you have all the makings of a good fable.   Much like in the three little bears where the porridge is initially to hot or too cold the search for “just right” often comes at the expense of several previous dubious efforts.

The width of the saddle you are riding is critical to your alignment on the bike. Comfort and alignment are two different things, what I am referring to is the side by side support of your sit bones or ischreal tuberosities as it relates to their position on the seat.  The average persons’ sit bones are 14cm or wider, but the majority of saddles especially “racing” ones are in the 13cm range.  It means that even though one sit bone is planted, there is not enough saddle/material for it to parallel so it must adjust forward or aft for support, thus moving your hip, knee in or out as you pedal.   This concept is also a major source of genital discomfort and a leading cause of saddle sores... Since the sit bones cannot properly support your weight due to the wrong width or shape, the majority of the support is in the perinea/pubis area.   This same pressure can also be associated with low handlebar position as your weight is being “rolled” or pulled forward on your perinea.  This is one reason why women’s specific saddles are wider in the rear and have a shorter nose than normal saddles. The more upright you ride the wider your seat needs to be. Your sit bones widen as you sit up, they are at their closest point when your torso is most parallel to the ground and widest if you were to sit straight up in the seat while pedaling.  

So with that said of the selection criteria should be based on the torso angle or how high you sit up.

Level it out.  It is commonly suggested to start with the saddle parallel to the ground whenever possible.  A saddle pointed too far down forces weight onto your hands. The body in order to overcome the forces of vibration lock out the elbows to stabilize itself and hold you up as you pedals. Now all that stress is behind your neck and shoulders.   If the saddle is too nose up may lead to lower back pain as the pelvis is rolled back and trying to stabilize itself in multiple directions.

Keep it straight. We often do safety checks  pre-ride, checking tires and brakes but we often overlook little  things that can add up to big problems . I often see a major source of knee injury/discomfort by someone who simply rode with their saddle that was slightly askew most likely from transport.    A chronic neck, shoulder or hand issue could be a shifter that has dropped down or is in or out so a bar that is slightly off center. These small details can add up to great discomfort if you are on the bike for multiple hours.

You’re not pro.  You need to be honest and reason with yourself and buy the saddle for who you are and not who you want to be or emulate. If you feel that you need a cut-out or more padding then you probably do.  A wise Italian man once remarked to me that “saddles and grease are not good places to save weight on a bicycle”.  Look closely at the television next time and count the robust “old school/classic” saddles that have been around for thirty years on riders lucky enough to have contractual control over that component. If the frame weighs 900 grams and the saddle weighs 330grams then there is a conscious decision in that choice and sometimes comfort is performance.

Rite of passage tips for buying/upgrading your saddle

1. Don’t listen to anyone. Decide for yourself, unless you have an identical twin using a different saddle than yours since it is a highly personal matter and no two butts are the same.

2. Get measured. There are several different options and devices that measure your sit bones at the desired “lean” level and have a corresponding color or number system to help with saddle selection. 

3. Decide on the width first then shape. Once you have figured out your desired size choose a shape, some models will be domed or have curvature and others a flatter profile from front to back.

4. Softness v. support. The longer the ride the firmer the saddle needs to be.  Too soft of a saddle and the muscles in your lower back will tighten over time in an effort to stabilize your hips.  Soft saddles are great for short trips, but not designed for the long haul.

5. Put your blindfold on.  Try to put your design hat in your back pocket and be objective.  Basing a decision on color, graphics or weight is self defeating.  Most great saddles come in both colors, black and white.

6. Try to seek out establishments with a good saddle selection with a demo/test ride program or a liberal test ride policy.  This will allow you to try shapes and options in your desired width, and be able to contrast and compare.

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